no recipe · St Petersburg · travel

Petrogradskaya Side, St Petersburg

My personal summer has officially begun in St Petersburg with a new job and lots of other things. This entire working week I didn’t get a chance to cook a single muffin before thanks God it’s Friday yesterday. I just had no time. Let’s say it was my day week off baking – this post is going to be an equally no-food one, complementing my three-post series on St Petersburg.

I woke up today happy to feel the warm aroma of the rye bread baked a day before and to see a reassuring pile of sweet cherry muffins on the table. Last night there was a lovely bird whose delicate singing reached the 23rd floor window and made me fall asleep with a smile on my face. Waking up today to a cheerful chorus of even more birds, with the sun rays coming through a thick curtain, could only make this smile wider. And there’s a tasty breakfast to follow as well! Even the ever-present traffic noise and construction in progress somewhere down there – also reaching whatever height there is – could not spoil the picture. Bread and muffins have made there way safely to my parents’ place and I guess this weekend will see me making up for the rest of this week, in a baking frenzy.

Andrey Petrov's square

Andrey Petrov’s Square with the bas reliefs dedicated to Dali, Kharms, Likhachev and Shostakovich, on Kamennoostrovsky Prospect

The new job made me walk through St Petersburg in these early but already hot summer days, when all the city’s green has come into full blossom. I’ve walked both in the office’s neighborhood and through the center of St Pete. Each time I made the way from and to the metro station I managed to spot some new details in the city’s perhaps most architecturally diverse and attractive district – the Petrogradskaya side (Petrogradskaya Storona, aka Petrogradka). All thanks to the (homonym) main metro station of this side of the Neva River temporarily closed and now making busy people walk frantically from the nearest stations. The station I chose as substitution is Gorkovskaya (in honor of the writer Gorky who used to live nearby) and it looks just like a UFO (it also used to be shut down a while ago – and this is how it looks now). I somehow managed to pause on my way through this district and take some pictures – I would have been making them more often were I not running along with the crowd apparently suffering from the same hmm habit of setting off late to work in the morning : )

Gorky and the Mosque

Gorky and the Mosque (1913-21), Kamennoostrovsky Prospect. Looks very much like Lenin from behind. Would have been a ‘funnier’ photo.

the city's day preparation

My first day at work coincided with the City’s Day (27th of May) – these were the preparations in the morning, workers mounting the flags on the designated buildings of the city. This was taken when I walked from another metro station, a less crowded way but less convenient as it requires changing the metro lines. So the next day I was walking from Gorkovskaya along Kamennoostrovsky Prospect:

House with Towers, Kamennoostrovsky Prospect

House with Towers, Kamennoostrovsky Prospect

Kamennoostrovsky Prospect the district’s main avenue, is really one of the most beautiful streets in St Petersburg, regardless of its crowds, cars and weird shop signs. It’s a true treasure of architectural ‘delicatessen’ of the early 20th century. The interior of the houses is as astonishing as their exterior – although it’s difficult to get inside but there are photos of all the details – of all the houses – online. When you walk along this avenue you hardly imagine all the beauty it really contains – this post in some way is dedicated to this gem which I rediscovered with my new job. I’ve already talked about this district in my previous posts (here and here) dedicated to St Petersburg, this is a more detailed photo guide to it.

Cute 3 storey building on Kamenoostrovsky

Cute 3 storey building, Kamennoostrovsky Prospect

Lenfilm museum

Lenfilm studios and museum, ex cinema Aquarium where in 1896 was Russia watched the first cinema show, Kamennoostrovsky Prospect

Avstriyskaya Square

Avstriyskaya Square (Austrian), Kamennoostrovsky Prospect

Square near Tsekhova House

Square near Tsekhova House, Kamennoostrovsky Prospect

Kavos House

Kavos House, Kamennoostrovsky Prospect – modernism

Kavos House and a cyclist

Kavos House, Kamennoostrovsky Prospect – hard job getting through the crowd on a bike in the morning…

Benois House

Benois House, Kamennoostrovsky Prospect – not in the best condition

on Kamennoostrovsly Prospect

Someone’s walking out of the pseudo-classicism building, Kamennoostrovsky Prospect

Bolshoy Prospect

And this is already on Bolshoy Prospect of the same Petrogradskaya Side (cause there’s an avenue of the same name in another district), this tower would not fit in the photo…

Maly Prospect, 1930s house

Maly Prospect, 1930s house (the Soviet constructivism style), close to my office

Troitskaya Church

Troitskaya Church built on the grounds of the demolished Troitsky Cathedral (looks like a church bell)

Blagodat frigate turned into restaurant

Blagodat frigate (reconstruction) turned into restaurant

Troitsky Bridge

Troitsky Bridge over Neva, leading to the most central part of St Petersburg – that one with Hermitage and Nevsky

Field of Mars (Marsovo Pole)

Field of Mars (Marsovo Pole), with Mikhaylovsky Castle and Savior on Spilled Blood Church in the background, already on the other side of Neva

The city is dressed in green and lilac bushes in full blossom (there’s also acacia bushes which smell awful), people are already occupying the grass to far niente. I would love to have even more green space in our city, especially in its less touristy parts, in the residential districts. What I’ve noticed today is that not all the paths in the city’s courts and parks – which characteristically NEVER converge with the paved official (legal : ) paths made for the ‘civilized’ people – are the same during the long winter time and the short St Petersburg summer. You will soon adapt to the slightly altered way from your block of flats to the nearest metro though. It’s just that you suddenly realize there is a branch of a tree blocking your usual way and making you duck your head when you pass underneath it ,) Summer in Peter!

Lots of photos and not much to say this time. Just contemplate and enjoy. And I will go back to backing!

G.

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